3D Printer da Vinci Junior – Marlin / MKS 1.4 Board Modification

The da Vinci Junior 3D Printer is small, light, has a closed case, LED Lights, is easy to use, and you can get it for 275-349€. For me the printing results are very good, but you can not use any Filament because of the NFC Chip protection. There are some tutorials for da Vinci modifications, but they all are working with the basic Marlin Firmware, that not has a 100% logical menu structure, and some things are missing completely.

With my MKS Gen 1.4 Modification you have nearly the same functions like the original da Vinci Jr Firmware (Load Filament, Unload Filament, Clean Noozle, ADJ Z Offset, …). But also some new functions like a Stepper Driver Selection (A4988, DRV8825, TMC2100) or the Driver Module Temperature Measurement on the Info Screen, also “Nozzle PID Autotune” in the “Settings”. And… I think a really easy and fast way to modify your da Vinci Jr.

 

           

 

What do you need?

 

Steps:

  • Create flat 130cm Noozle cable with 10 Wires and two adapters with resistors (Case Light, Endpoint Sensors)
  • Remove the da Vinci Junior mainboard and the flat Noozle cable
  • Insert the MKS 1.4 Board, adapters and dupont wires
  • Use the new flat Noozle cable to connect the Noozle and MKS Board
  • Modify the Display Case with the LCD2004 Module
  • Upload the Arduino Firmware into the MKS 1.4 Board
  • Install the Driver boards and adjust the Driver voltage (A4988 0.5V, DRV8825 0.7V, TMC2100 0.8V)
  • Power up the da Vinci Junior and select the used DRIVER MODULE in the “Settings” Menu
  • Adjust Noozle Home Position in the “Settings” Menu

Ready

 

 

Here are the connection overviews of the two boards:

    

 

Attention: 

Every little mistake will burn the Board, the Drivers and other elements. So, take care of  that what you are doing. DO NOT SWITCH ON THE BOARD without connected STEPPER MOTORS if the DRIVER Modules are plugged in! So, please check also the connected Stepper Motor cables and check THE DIRECTION you plugged in the Driver modules!

The Hotend need more current as one wire can handle. One single wire will be very hot and is dangerous! This is the reason why I use  2 x 3 Wires for the Hotend!

In any case you need a 40mm Hotend Fan with ~6000-10000 RPM. I’ve tried slower models with less noise, but then the Hotend will clogged/jammed/blocked very fast. 

If you have issues with the Extruder and Stepper Motors, then try to reduce the “Feed Rate” (“FR 100%” on the display). This you can do in realtime while the printer is printing (use the knob). Reduce it to 50% or 35% and keep an eye on it. For me that fixed the issues with some PLA Filaments (extruder clogged/jammed/blocked and clicks).

As case fan I’m using a silent “BeQuiet!”  Fan (80 mm).

Stepper Motors: < 40°C
Hotend Case: < 65°C

 

  A4988 DRV8825 TMC2100 * TMC2100
Board Voltage 12V  12V 19V  19V 
Drivers Ref. Voltage 0.5V  0.6V 0.8V  0.8V 
Temperature < 50°C < 50°C  < 65°C (20mm/s) < 65°C (20mm/s)
Noise very noisy  noisy less noisy  stealth
Mode CFG1->GND
CFG2->OPEN
CFG3->OPEN

CFG1->OPEN
CFG2->OPEN
CFG3->OPEN

* Tested with: 10-25 mm/s (FeedRate: 100-250%), Result: No step losses (only with > 30-50 mm/s you will lose steps). If you want quality and speed, then 20mm/s is the best choice I think. With 30mm/s and above the print quality is not so well if you want to see good details. If you want to print with Layer Height 0.1mm, then you have to use 20mm/s. 10mm/s is to slow (bad results). Also Higher speed > 20mm/s is not good.

Used Power Supply: LITEON Acer 19V 4,74A  ADP-90SB PA-1900-04

To use the Light and the Fans with 19V you can use a StepDown Module, then you can regulate the 19V to 12V:

 

 

 

 

3w to G-Code Converter for MacOS:

This is my da Vinci 3w to G-Code Converter. With this tool you can control also some G-Code values. I’m using the XYZWare Version 2.1.4, because it is newer, but not the newest with the annoying “Internet always On” feature.

 

Slic3r:

If you are using Slic3r or another 3D Printing Software, then after “G28” you have to use as 2nd command: “G1 X0 Y0 Z12” to set the Nozzle to the start position. If you are not doing this the Nozzle will jump over the left front bed corner. For Slic3r you can download my slic3r.ini file and import it in Slic3r everytime you want to print something.

 

 

 

    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    

 

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